Branč castle ruins, Slovakia

Sometimes Europe amazes me.  

Friends and I were on the way to see two different Slovakian castles when we spied this on a hill in the distance and decided to go.  Might as well see three in one day, right?  Which is approximately three more castles than you can visit in one day in most places in America.  

Vel'ká Fatra, Slovakia--Biking Gaderská Dolina

The Gaderská valley follows the most beautiful stream, a magical blue color that must be due to some mineral in the water (combined with the white rocks it runs over and the absolute clarity of the water).  I didn't get to enjoy the stream enough the day before on my fantastic hike, so I decided to rent a bike the second day and bike the paved bike path to Čertova Brána (The Devil's Gate), a narrow rock "gate" on a side valley.   

The Devil's Gate:

The pictures don't really capture the blue, but this one tries:

The bike rental shop was closed and I had to text them to open it just for me, then the bike they gave me had a pedal that kept coming loose, despite me tightening it three times, so I exchanged it basically on the honor system (the guy just left a couple of bikes out for me to choose).  In exchange for the trouble, he gave me the bike for the whole day.  

I wondered for a while if there was something wrong with it too, because it felt harder to pedal than it should, but once I turned around and started coming back, I realized why.  The gradient had been steeper than it looked.  I coasted entire sections of the return trip, sometimes too fast for my comfort.  Most of the rest only require a bit of gentle pedaling periodically.  Another fantastic day.  Since I had time, I also explored a bit of the (unpaved) Blatnická Dolina, where a bit of blue sky peeked out for a few minutes, and then walked around the pretty town of Blatnica. 

I highly recommend this area if ever you're in the Vel'ká Fatra.

Bike trip total:  20.9 km, 226 meters elevation gain (13 miles, 741 feet)

Vel'ká Fatra, Slovakia--Tlstá and Ostrá loop

In mid-November, I spent a long weekend in the Vel'ká Fatra, a national park in western Slovakia.  It was a fantastic trip, in some gorgeous mountains I'd never been to before.  Even the weather cooperated:  cloudy but not rainy and warm for the season.  The clouds often lent the landscape a beautiful, mysterious feel.

The first day, I took a fantastic hike that included one castle whose ruins I could explore on my own, two caves which were also free to explore, and two gorgeous and very different mountain peaks, with a lot of fun trail between.  All that in one day.  I felt very blessed.  

Me at the trailhead, the beautiful Gaderská Dolina, near Blatnica:

Blatnica Castle:

Views from the castle:

From inside the first cave:

Inside the second cave (Mažarná):

Just some little views from the trail:

Approaching the top of Tlstá Peak ("fat peak"):

Views from Tlstá (1373 meters above sea level):

Views of the trail ahead, near Ostrá:

The last scramble to the top of Ostrá, complete with chains to help you climb the rocks:

And this hole you have to climb through:

Fantastic trip.  So much variety and natural beauty.  I didn't quite get back before dark, but almost.  And once I was back in Gaderská Dolina, I found the energy to run half the rest of the way to the bus stop and got there about two minutes before the bus came.  Total success of a day.

Mileage estimate:  18.4 km, 1067 meters elevation gain (11.4 miles, 3500 feet).

"The Symbolic Cemetery," My Newest Published Work

 Head on over to the Baltimore Review to read my non-fiction piece about mountain climbing and the sometimes-deadly lure of the mountains.  

But first, some pictures.  Memorial plaques at the Symbolic Cemetery in the High Tatra mountains:

Me at Kôprovský štít, which I mention in the piece:

That lake you see in the picture above is a glacial tarn, Veľké Hincovo pleso,  Here's a shot from its banks:  

Near the Symbolic Cemetery in winter:

Want to know more?  Read The Symbolic Cemetery 

Hiking the Czech-Slovak border

I love living so close to the Czech/Slovak border.  A few weeks ago, I went hiking along the ridge that separates the countries, and I went to Slovakia about 50 times, hopping back and forth like a kid over the border markers.

This is from the red trail west of Kohútka.  That thing I'm leaning on is one of the many old border markers.  The "S" stands for Slovakia.  There's a "C" on the other side for the Czech Republi, and a line through the top marking the exact border.  Some of the lines even change angles right on the stone.  Very cool.

If you go...

If you want to go without a car, I recommend getting a bus to "Nový Hrozenkov,Vranča,konečná" and then hiking up to Kohútka via the yellow/blue trail.  Stop at the restaurant there for lunch or a snack.  Consider their famous blueberry knedliky (a sort of dumpling filled with blueberries and drenched in cream, butter, and sugar).  Then hike the red trail west as far as you like before heading down to a road or train line.  I took the blue trail to Huslenky (well, I got lost on the blue trail, but ended up in Huslenky anyway).  Great hike.

Inversion in Slovakia

Inversion from a nameless little peak close to Roháč (Near Puchov, Slovakia). And yes, we're above the clouds. Unexpected and spectacular.

High Tatras Hikes: Koprovsky Stit

This is Hincovo Pleso, the biggest glacial tarn in the Slovakian side of the High Tatras.  Just look at the clarity of that water.  Gorgeous!

I spent a lot of time watching the fish and simply staring at my surroundings in wonder.

And this is me high above the same lake, on the rocky tippy top of Koprovsky Stit (2367m / 7766ft)

It's amazing to me how low these stunning "high" alpine areas are in Europe.  Koprovsky Stit is almost exactly as high as Pinal Peak near Globe, Arizona, where I grew up.  Yet Pinal Peak is nowhere near the tree line.  The world is amazing.

Hike Details (Round Trip) from Popradske Pleso (the lake and mountain chalet, not the train stop):

Length: 8.8 km 

Climb: 812 m

Estimated time: 3 hrs 50 min  

Hike Details (Round Trip) from Strbske Pleso

Length:  18.2 km

Climb:  1209 m

Estimated time:  7 hrs

Difficulty:  For people like me, the very end is a little scary, because you're so high and you're just sort of clambering over rocks.  The trail also has some steep switchback parts.  Just take it slow.  Trail is closed in winter.

Súľovské skaly in Slovakia

Súľov fields, forests, and rocks

Súľovské skaly is an area in western Slovakia with lots of striking white-gray rock formations sticking up through the forest.  Gorgeous hiking and beautiful views.  

Bus connections to Súľov town may be a little tricky, depending on where you're coming from, but it's possible.  

View out of the Dragon Hole

I went with friends in their car, and we took the yellow path from Súľov up to the Dragon's Hole cave (Šarkania diera), past a cool stone bridge, and then to the trail crossroads at pod Roháč.  We then followed the red trail through rock formations and great viewpoints to the turn-off to the ruins of Súľov Castle.  At the ruins, beautiful views and tiny entryways made me appreciate its defensive position.  

The  trail was only about 8km long, but included nearly 600m of elevation climb, some of it with the aid of ladders and iron rings stuck into the rock.  Great fun.   

Me, enjoying the views

Don't look down!

Fun ladders and handles on the trail

  

The doorway to the castle

View from the castle

High Tatras Hikes: Zelene Pleso

Spectacular Hike #3 in the High Tatras: Zelené Pleso
(Hike taken mid March)

Rugged Mountains and frozen waterfalls near Zelene Pleso

Features:  steady ascent, mostly gentle, beautiful creek half frozen in winter, rugged mountains ringing you once you get near the lake, frozen waterfalls of ice on the mountain faces, chata (mountain cabin) and lake at the end. 

Length:  14.6 km round trip

Climb:  671 m

Estimated time:  5 hrs (3 up, 2 down)

Stream half covered in snow

Ice climber.  A little braver than me.

A world of white

 If you go...

Starting point:  Biela Voda bus stop (on the route between Tatranska Lomnica and Tatranska Kotlina)

Color code:  Yellow

High Tatras Hikes: Popradske Pleso

Spectacular Hike #2 in the High Tatras: Popradské Pleso

Blue trail near crossroads to Simbolicky Cintorin (symbolic graveyard)

Features:  easy ascent, rugged mountains rising in indescribable splendor all around you, mountain lake (tarn), lunch or drinks on the terrace of Popradské Pleso Chata, watching skiers in winter at Štrbské Pleso.

Length:  9 km

Climb:  391 m

Descent:  323 m

Estimated time:  3 hrs

Beginning of trail near Popradske Pleso train stop

Blue trail, near Popradske Pleso

One of the mountain lodges at Popradske Pleso
The lake is behind, all covered with snow

If you go...

Starting point:  Popradské Pleso train stop.

Ending point:  Štrbské Pleso train station

Color codes:  Blue trail to Popradské Pleso

Green trail and then red trail to Štrbské Pleso (or take the red trail all the way if it's open)

Warnings:  Can be treacherous in winter on the way down if snow has been melting and refreezing, turning icy.

High Tatras Hikes: Skalnate Pleso to Studeny Potok

Spectacular Hike #1 in the High Tatras: Skalnaté Pleso to Studený Potok

Features:  Sweeping views, mountain lake, alpine trail that descends into forest, pretty stream with waterfalls, mountain lodges where you can stop for tea or food.   

Length:  8.1 km

Climb:  66 m

Descent:  904 m

Estimated time:  2 hrs 10 minutes

Actual time when snow is icy and treacherous:  at least 3 hours

Lomnicky Stit from the trail

A nice little picnic spot on the trail

Me in front of Slavkovsky Stit

Half frozen waterfall

Studeny Potok

If you go...

Starting point:  Skalnaté Pleso, accessed via two cable cars from Tatranská Lomnica.

Ending point:  Tatranská Lesná, from which you can catch a bus or the electric train to other HIgh Tatras towns.   

Color codes:  Red-marked trail from Skalnaté Pleso to Zamkovského Chata (mountain lodge)

Green trail to Vodopady Studeného Potoka (Waterfalls on Studený Stream)

Yellow trail to Tatranská Lesná

Warnings:  Not for those extremely afraid of heights.  In late winter, when temperatures have been above freezing, the snow will be icy and treacherous.  Be very careful and only attempt with good boots.