Backpacking Rim to Rim in the Grand Canyon--Day 2--Ribbon Falls

Day 2:  Ribbon Falls, Wall Creek, and rest day at Cottonwood Campground, May 13, 2025

I reserved two nights at Cottonwood, partly on the off chance the North Rim didn't open when expected. Then I'd have the option of blitzing up to the North Rim on this, my second day, and then returning to the South Rim on the third.  Luckily, there was no such trouble with snow on the North Rim, so I had a day at leisure.    

I enjoyed a relaxing morning, then took my mostly-empty backpack and headed to Ribbon Falls, only a couple of miles south of Cottonwood.  

I'd worried that Bright Angel Creek would be dangerous to cross, because two years ago in early May it had been a violent, frothing terror I wouldn't have dared cross.  Last year in late April it had been pretty vigorous.  I wouldn't have crossed it alone, and I would have been very, very careful to pick exactly the right spot.  I heard a couple of tales that year of people who HAD crossed it.  One, an young man, very adventurous and strong, had said it made him nervous but he was okay.  The other was a somewhat older couple, but also very fit and adventurous.  The woman had lost her balance and the current tore off her shoe and sock.  The man, by some miracle, had caught the shoe.  But the sock was history.  And she was grateful it hadn't carried her off.  So...I'd gone into this knowing I might not see Ribbon Falls. 

The first day, however, the moment I saw Bright Angel Creek emptying into the Colorado, I knew I had a good chance.  It just looked like a nice little creek.  When I got closer and saw how clear and relatively gentle it was, I got excited.     

Bright Angel emptying into the Colorado May 12, 2025:

Bright Angel emptying into the Colorado April 23, 2024:

Bright Angel Creek from the bridge at Phantom Ranch, May 12, 2025:

Bright Angel Creek from the bridge at Phantom Ranch, May 8. 2023:  

It's not quite as obvious in these pictures, but look at the color, the white caps, the rocks sticking out (or not), the width.  Nature is so variable.  

Anyway, with the creek so nice and low, I hiked down from Cottonwood to the northern, "bridge" crossing.  Of course, there's no longer a bridge, but you can see the remains of it if you look hard in this pictures:

I went just upstream of the old bridge site, where there seemed to be a trail, and found a really good place to cross.  It was no problem at all at this water level.  Later I heard one group that had crossed downstream of the bridge site that said it was a "nightmare."  I investigated on the way back, and yes, I'd recommend going upstream--at least at this water level.  I heard others say the "creek" crossing on the south end was sketchy.  Others said it was fine.  But I think the braided trails also lead to various crossing points there, so just investigate a bit and pick the best one.  NOTE:  I do NOT RECOMMEND crossing in higher water if you're alone, if you're not used to creek crossings, or if you have any other reason for caution.   And if it's like it was in 2023 when I was here, I wouldn't cross at all.  

I got there at about 8:30 AM and I had the entire place to myself.  It was amazing.  

I played in the pool at the bottom, climbed up behind the upper part, watched the wind change the course of the falls, sat on a rock and let the spray cool me.  Then came the moment when the sun finally made its way down over the cliff walls and lit the upper cascade.  Gorgeous.

The first people got there about 10:00.  I talked with lots of interesting people, all doing the Grand Canyon in their own way, from the thru-hiker who didn't start ultralight but who, after almost 700 miles, is now, except for extra powerpacks he carries so he can facetime his girlfriend for an hour in the middle of nowhere when he finally gets signal, to the guy who had brought several old-school paperback adventure novels because he and his friends were staying at the lodge at Phantom Ranch and could afford the weight.  There was a group camping two nights at Cottonwood, like me, who'd planned to hike up to the North Rim today but decided they'd better save their energy for the unexpectedly long hike back to the South Rim (with the Bright Angel Trail closed partway).  There was a geologist who explained that the mound of Ribbon Falls had formed over the eons like a cave stalagmite.  And the guy who discovered that the little cave we'd been wading into actually had a birds nest with two baby birds in it:

I spent about four hours there, and loved it.  What a privilege to have a day to spend in a place like this.  

By the way, I got a ton of comments on my rainbow water shoes.  

Their tread/soles were good enough to wear all around the falls (with caution), and they were super comfortable.  They are also super light, dry quickly, and will probably become my go-to camp shoes, even if I'm not going to use them as water shoes.  I'm not sure how durable they'll be with hard or extended use, but for this purpose, they were perfect.  Ounces:  5.2 for the pair.  Packability:  great.  Price:  $8 when I bought them (though they're showing $10 now).  Anluke Water shoes on Amazon:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WS7VSL.  Available in plenty of colors/patterns.

After I left Ribbon Falls, I explored Wall Creek just a bit--upstream--because I'd read of someone else adventuring up there.  It was too brushy, but I picked around a bit and found several darling little frogs and this handsome guy:

 Just before I got back to Cottonwood, at 2:20 pm, I met a young woman running BACK from the North Rim already.  "Are you running rim-to-rim-to-rim?" I asked in awe.  Her:  "Yes.  First and LAST time.  It's work."  And me?  I was just lazing around all day in a beautiful place.  Those trail runners are really something else.  

I spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in camp, chatting with fellow campers, wading in the creek.  Another fantastic day in the Canyon.